Stalling While Driving

Stalling while driving and/or the inability to restart a warm vehicle after driving for a short period of time can be attributed to a faulty fuel pump relay issue, but it is not common.  In most situations, people experiencing this issue report the following

• Vehicle stalls while driving, then coasts to the side of the road.  Or vehicle stalls after a consistent number of miles driven.
• Vehicle can experience difficulty restarting - usually a "crank, no start" situation where it acts like it's out of gas
• After 5-30 minutes, the vehicle will restart normally
• The problem usually occurs when the vehicle has recently been driven in warm weather
• Other variations involve stalling with an easy restart or stalling with no starter activity when you turn the key

If your vehicle restarts immediately after stalling, it's probably worth testing or bypassing the fuel pump relay.  Our recommendation would be the TIPM Plug-In Relay System Lite, which has a 30 day money back guarantee.  Stalling with the inability to restart is quite common, but typically not related to the fuel pump circuit or our parts, especially if you turn the ignition key and nothing happens. 

Causes:

• "Star Connector" open circuits (as confirmed via discussions with a Chrysler tech in 2024).  These are male/female CAN bus connectors that pass electrical signals inside your vehicle from module to module, which are often located inside the cab near your feet.  Star connectors contain a circuit board with capacitors and other surface mount parts that can fail over time.  If you can only drive a certain number of miles or time before your vehicle stalls or won't restart, check these connectors.  See this video for details or see the YouTube viewer below.
  
  
• Your fuses or our parts are not making good physical contact with your fuse box terminals.  See our Fuse Slot Hot Spots page for details.  The fuel pump fuse (often M25 or F70) should be your focus.
   
• Cold solder joints where cracks in solder widen due to thermal expansion, resulting in signal or voltage loss.  This issue could be inside the TIPM or PCM.
• Thermal expansion of other mating connectors.

Solutions:

• Check all known Star connectors for misaligned pins, bad capacitors, damaged wires or PCB components, or cold solder joints.
• Tighten your fuse box terminals so they properly secure your fuses and/or our parts when inserted.
• Inspect TIPM circuit boards under microscope to identify cold solder joint locations (very difficult).

How to rule out the fuel pump circuit and/or our parts:

1. Most of our parts contain a PUMP ON green LED that is integrated into the design.  This LED will be lit when power is flowing to your fuel pump.  NOTE:  If you don't have our parts, you can use a multimeter or test light with one lead placed on top of the fuel pump fuse (M25 or F70) and the other lead to chassis ground or battery negative terminal to detect voltage.  
2. Have someone attempt to start your vehicle while you watch the PUMP ON green LED.  With some parts, you may need to connect a temporary ground wire per the part instructions in order the make the LEDs light up.
3. Attempt to start the vehicle.
4. If the vehicle will not start, but the PUMP ON green LED is lit on our parts, then our part is working properly and delivering power to your fuel pump as designed.  If using a multimeter or test light, you are trying to detect the presence of 12 VDC across the fuel pump fuse, which should only appear during engine cranking or while running.
5. Test your fuel pump using a TIPM bypass cable or TIPM Plug-In Relay System (ASD) when the vehicle is off to ensure the pump is working properly